All love for hats (and a man who makes them). An interview with Albertus Q. Swanepoel...

 

Recently, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and Vogue announced the recipients of their fifth annual awards from the CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund. Congratulations are in order for the winner—Alexander Wang— and also for the runners up Lisa Mayock, Sophie Buhai, and Albertus Q. Swanepoel.

The CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund (CVFF) was established in 2003 to help emerging talent find continued success in the business of fashion. The winner and runners-up are given the opportunity to meet regularly with a team of business mentors and also receive $200,000 ( the runners-up each get $50,000).

In the CFDA’s official press release, VOGUE Editor in Chief Anna Wintour was quoted as saying, "In only the fifth year of the Fashion Fund competition, we know that to win a first or runner-up prize is to receive a very substantial professional boost. The proof lies in the remarkable success of the Fund's previous winners." It was Anna Wintour who also gave the foreword to Vera Wang’s gorgeous pictorial Vera Wang On Weddings (Collins Living), in which Swanepoel crafted all of the hats.

Albertus Q. Swanepoel (elegantly pronounced Swan+pool) is a milliner, the only hat-maker ever to be nominated for this most prestigious award, and is primed to evolve from crafter of hats to celebrated fashion icon, not unlike CoCo Chanel—whose first American job was also as a milliner.

Originally from Pretoria, South Africa, where he was an award-winning fashion designer, Swanepoel is currently one of NYC’s most noted. Featured in a two-page spread in November’s issue of Vogue, he was—earlier this year—asked to design a hat for President Elect Barack Obama’s “Runway to Change” fundraising drive (along with A-listers like Juicy Couture, Isaac Mizrahi and Beyonce).

Recently, Albertus welcomed me into his studio for an interview. Here is an excerpt of some of some of our most memorable discussion:

pmb: In the ongoing discussion—fashion as art—do you consider yourself an artist? Do you consider fashion art?

AQS: I don’t consider fashion art in the traditional sense of the word, no. If anything, fashion is sartorial art—art related to clothing. It’s more of a craft for me. A dress is not going to be in fashion 20 years from now whereas art is timeless. We won’t look at a hat five years from now and still be inspired by it, as we would a Picasso. What we do in fashion is influential, but it’s not art. People are not going to take a Picasso and repaint it. We are constantly re-creating fashion.

After discussing his work, much of it adorned with South African motifs and flowers, including this design below that Jennifer Anistan wore on an episode of 30 Rock...

I said to Albertus, “Yet so much of your work appears so innovative, so artistic…”

AQS: Well, that may be because I love the idea of taking something incredibly expensive and putting it with something that is not; like a hat I crafted with a pom-pom made of a plastic garbage bag. I just think it’s such a whimsical idea. I just personally love to use something when it’s not so fancy and expensive looking; and for something to look almost damaged in a way.

pmb: A lot of women that I know, including myself, love to wear hats, however I realize that there are equal, if not more women who simply won’t. Many women think they just don’t look good in hats...

AQS: There is a weird misconception, so many women who think that hats don’t fit them, that they don’t have a hat face or that it will mess up their hair. The trick with hats is to make them a matter of contrast. Hats should contrast with your outfit yet compliment it. The same with your face. If you have an upturned nose, for example, try a downward brim. Round face? Try a square hat. I feel anybody in the world can get the right hat to wear. I don’t buy the excuses.

pmb: What about women and/or the fashion enthused who think hats are not in style?

AQS: Hats get a bad rap. It’s the first thing that is picked on with celebrities. It’s just not that highly regarded anymore. That’s why I personally try to make hats that are very wearable. A hat should be put on and become very personal. Hats are for people who love and appreciate the craft of fashion. There are always more hats in European shows than New York shows because of their tendency to be more adventurous. We’re definitely seeing a resurgence.

A milliner known to take a traditionally male fedora and feminize it, Albertus adds this advice for the hat reluctant:

AQS: Just have one fantastic hat at least. Try an old vintage fedora with a fairly modern outfit or try a winter fedora in the summer.

On his nod from the CFDA, Albertus, ever assuming, simply says, “It’s just truly… really amazing.”

The same could be said for Albertus Swanepoel and his incredible talent.

In the tradition of “The It’s All Love” blog, re-born now as “The Love Spot”, I asked Albertus our magic question…

pmb: What is love?

AQS: Love is a very powerful, intense feeling closest to one's heart: strong yet very fragile.

Having said that, I asked him who or what does he love?

He says his BF, Eddie Marquez, his cat, “Cuculoo Pooker” and opera music, which—much to the chagrin of his assistant—he plays 90% of the time in the studio.

AQS: My parents took me to the opera when I was a kid. It’s the ultimate art form. When all of those aspects come together—the stage, the costumes, the singing, the orchestra—it’s such an extraordinary experience. It’s an amazing art. And now there are more and more really young singers. It’s not so much just the fat lady singing anymore.

Albertus Swanepoel also digs 80s disco and Frank Sinastra and he loves books, evidence abounds on all the shelves in his studio. He also collects magazines from the 1950s.

And so, here’s why The Love Spot loves Albertus:

Albertus Q. Swanpoel, milliner extraordinaire is an unassuming man, not at all pretentious despite his success; yet he is quietly self-assured. He’s got an unusual name and, well we love unique names, no? :) In a world, a city in particular, where people are coming and going and on to the next thing to do, Albertus is present in the moment. He takes time to ponder before he answers. He listens when you speak to him. And his eyes are sincere. His is a handshake firm and confident yet warm and so genuine. To know Albertus is to adore him and to know his work is to respect it… and to want to wear a hat, right? Here’s hoping.

xoxo and love!

pmb

P.S. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund event was made possible In partrnership with the GAP, and underwritten by American Express, Appleman Foundation, Barneys New York, Coach, Evgeny Lebedev, Hudson Bay Trading Company, Juicy Couture, Kellwood Company, Liz Claiborne Inc., L’Oréal Paris, Nordstrom, Theory, and VOGUE

Winter Divas...

So, the other day my friend Jae sent a "girl talk" email, a list of "5 things that every woman should have in her wardrobe." She wanted to know if we all agreed. And, for the most part, I did. The black slacks. The perfect white shirt. The perfect pair of jeans--though I rarely wear them--okay, yes. I agree. I can't remember what the other two were but it was definitely a list of staples. Okay, I did think to myself that added to the list should be an essential black leather skirt for those dump him and move on goodbye dinners--Oops... Did I just say that?

;)

Anyhoo, so I pondered further...

What then are the five things that every diva--in the fabulous sense of the word--must have in her winter wardrobe?

1. A cropped leather jacket, preferably black. My personal favorite is by Kenneth Cole who managed to keep the cut sexy but classic.

Love it. This year, I've also got my eye on Andrew Marc.

2. A distinct accent hat, at least one. Fashionistas are buzzing about the resurgence of hats but actually true divas--from the Kentucky Derby to the Cowgirls in Dallas to church ladies to England's most fabulous--never stopped rocking them--and not just on bad hair days. The key is to downplay accessories when wearing one and to always wear it as opposed to vice versa. A hat should be an accent not a statement. A true diva, I have a hat box collection full of everything from cowgirl hats (including the one from Blame It on Eve's author photo) to Kangols to fedoras to the Cooley High looking floppy one I swiped from my dad's 1970's collection on its way to the Goodwill :)

*BTW, In regard to hats, stay tuned for a very VERY special guest in "The Love Spot"!!!

3. Knee-high boots. My current favorites? The "Nora" by Gabriella Rocha.

4. Studs. Now, I happen to be a pearl or diamond stud diva, but birthstones are nice. What a fabulous statement--a glistening stud revealed after the removal of muffs or a
lovely glisten against a low pulled wool hat.


5. A lovely fur jacket. DSCLAIMER--in true diva fashion, it is fine, celebratory in fact, if it's faux. Those of you who recall the orginial "It's all love blogspot" know that I must say that it is--as I DO NOT WANT ANOTHER RUN IN WITH the you know who people from the ethical treatment of the you know whats--okay to rock faux, ladies. Rock! Faux! It's fine ;) even fabulous. Just keep it fly...

Love!
pmb

Fashion WEEK? Fashion FOREVER... (an ode to Oscar de la Renta)

Oscar de la Renta’s name is synonymous with authentic grace and true sophistication and his spring 2009 RTW prevailed as evidence sustained.

In what is the ongoing subliminal conversation in our society regarding fashion—it's place in history, whether or not it is art, it's contribution to popular culture—de la Renta's is perhaps the brand relied upon for the tried, the true, and the proven.

When I was a little girl and my mother spoke of glamour, so often it was the work of Oscar de la Renta that we discussed. As a young woman now, I truly understand his gift of elegance.

Oscar de la Renta's spring 2009 collection, showcased during Fashion Week, was a show void of all the ballyhoos we see with so many rising fashion stars/artists. There was no evidence that de la Renta may in any way be surrendering to the budding competition amongst designers for artistic expressionism.

Even the makeup exuded sophistication—eyes in smoked out glamour, cheeks shimmering in subtle pink and lips in a color described as “antique gold”!

And the palate of the fabrics—black, camel brown, Kelly green, blush pink and true red—proved that there remains in fashion the presence of classic refinement.

Not to worry. Oscar de la Renta offered hints of his brilliant innovation as well--the classic pantsuit with it's relaxed-structure for example.

The show was Jackie O’s glamour defined (her sister Lee Radizwell was on the front row) and Vogue's Anna Wintour’s sophistication explained (she too sat immediate to the stage.)

But also, as proof to Oscar’s appeal to us in younger generations who are sometimes less impressed by what’s hot and more by what is timeless, so sat Genevieve Jones and even Jennifer "J-Lo" Lopez (one of my personal style icons) up close.

Remember how Jenna Bush requested de la Renta to design her wedding gown this past spring? How evidence was that?

If grace were given a scent and elegance a smell, that would describe the imagined aroma present during Oscar de la Renta's show. It was—as is his legacy—pure, refreshing, timeless and beautiful.

Love!

P. Marie